Handmade Suits: Unravelling the Secrets of Master Tailors

• Bespoke Tailoring
• January 25, 2024

What Makes Handmade Suits So Special?

Handmade suits are garments that are meticulously crafted by our skilled tailors using traditional techniques and tools. Unlike mass-produced suits, which are made by machines, handmade suits are created with great attention to detail and precision.

Our suits are considered special for several reasons. Firstly, they offer a superior fit and comfort. Our tailors take precise measurements and create a pattern specifically tailored to your unique body shape. This ensures that the suit fits perfectly, enhancing your appearance and confidence. 

Secondly, hand made suits are made with high-quality materials. At Apsley, we carefully select fabrics that are durable, luxurious, and often sourced from renowned mills. Our attention to material choice ensures that the suit not only looks great but also lasts.

The craftsmanship involved in making a handmade suit is exceptional. Our skilled tailors spend hours meticulously cutting, stitching, and finishing each garment by hand. This level of craftsmanship results in impeccable detailing, such as perfectly aligned patterns, hand-sewn buttonholes, and precise stitching.

Lastly, you choose the exact design of your handmade suit. As the suit is being cut and handmade for you by one of our Master Tailors, we can create any design for your suit. Whether that be peak or notch lapels, single or double breasted, one or two buttons, the options are endless.

The History and Heritage of Handmade Suits

Tailoring houses and key historical figures playing a significant role in shaping the craft. The art of tailoring can be traced back to ancient civilisations such as Egypt, Greece and Rome where highly skilled craftsmen created garments tailored to fit individuals. In the early 19th century, Savile Row became synonymous with bespoke tailoring. It gained its prominence due to the tailoring houses established there, known for the exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail. 

While Savile Row dominated the bespoke tailoring scene, Italy also played a significant role in the history of hand made suits. Italian tailoring, characterised by its soft construction and attention to fabric, gained popularity in the mid-20th century. In recent years, handmade suits have continued to evolve, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern design techniques. While Savile Row and Italian houses remain influential, new tailoring houses and designers have emerged worldwide, offering their unique take on handmade suits. 

The Process of Creating a Handmade Suit at Apsley

At Apsley, our goal is to provide each client with an exceptional custom tailoring experience, crafting exquisite suits in a matter of weeks. Our commitment lies in the quality of our fabrics, designs, and every intricate detail that contributes to creating remarkable bespoke attire for you. We aim to make the journey of obtaining a bespoke piece as effortless, smooth, and enjoyable as it can be. Below is an outline of our artisan tailoring process:

1. CONSULTATION: Your bespoke suit journey begins with a detailed consultation. Here, we'll guide you through a selection of fabrics, linings, and styles, ensuring they are suited for your intended purpose. We'll conduct a thorough measurement of your body and take photographs to aid our tailors.
2. CUTTING: In this phase, our expert pattern cutters will translate your measurements, chosen style, and body shape into a unique paper pattern created just for you. This pattern is preserved for any future orders.
3. HANDMADE: Your garment is then meticulously handcrafted, employing traditional tailoring techniques tailored to your specific style needs. With over 5,000 stitches and 30-40 hours of craftsmanship, each suit is a testament to bespoke tailoring.
4. FITTING: You'll then have a fitting session with the tailor to try on your garment. During this personalized session, we assess the need for any alterations and discuss these with you. We provide as many fittings as necessary to ensure your complete satisfaction.
5. FINISH: The finishing stage is an art in itself. Here, the tailor carefully removes the temporary basting stitches and thoroughly inspects the garment to guarantee a final product of supreme quality. We also offer a complimentary three-month warranty on all garments to ensure your absolute satisfaction even after several wears. 

Our in-house tailor at Apsley, with years of dedicated experience, strives to make the process straightforward and hassle-free. We take over 30 precise measurements in each fitting session to ensure the utmost accuracy. Our focus on meticulous detail is balanced with a quick and unobtrusive measuring process.

We boast an extensive selection of fabrics, including the finest wools, linens, tweeds, and cashmeres from renowned brands like Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Zegna, Loro Piana, and Dormeuil, among others.

Here You Can Learn More About Bespoke Hand Made Suits By Apsley Tailors, London

The Art of Tailoring

 

Our master tailors possess a deep understanding of garment construction, fabric properties, and design principles. Some of the key skills and techniques that tailors use are:

1. Pattern making: Our tailors create patterns based on precise measurements taken from your body shape and preferences. These patterns serve as a blueprint for cutting and sewing the fabric. 
2. Cutting: Our tailor carefully cuts the fabric according to the pattern, ensuring accuracy and precision. They pay attention to the fabric’s grain, pattern matching, and any specific design details. 
3. Sewing: Our tailor uses various sewing techniques to join the fabric pieces together. This includes hand stitching, which is a hallmark of hand made suits. Hand stitching allows for greater control and precision, resulting in a superior finish. 
4. Fitting and alterations: At Apsley, we conduct multiple fittings to ensure the garment fits perfectly. We make necessary adjustments and alterations to achieve the desired fit and silhouette. 
5. Finishing details: Our tailors pay meticulous attention to finishing details, such as hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-rolled lapels, and hand-stitched linings. These details contribute to the overall quality and craftsmanship of the garment. 

Now, let’s discuss the difference between machine-made suits and handmade suits:

1. Construction: Machine-made suits are mass-produced using automated processes, while handmade suits are individually crafted by our skilled tailors. Handmade suits involve more intricate and time-consuming construction techniques, resulting in a higher level of craftsmanship. 
2. Fit and customisation: Handmade suits offer a superior fit as they are tailored specifically to the individuals body shape. Machine-made suits, on the other hand, are made based on standardised patterns and may require additional alterations for a perfect fit. 
3. Attention to detail: Hand made suits exhibit exceptional attention to detail, with hand stitched elements and meticulous finishing touches, whereas machine-made suits often lack these elements.
4. Fabric selection: Handmade suits often use high-quality fabrics that are carefully chosen for their drape, texture, and durability. Machine-made suits may use lower-grade fabrics to keep costs down. 

Customisation and Personalisation

At Apsley, handmade suits are tailored to individual preferences through a meticulous process that involves taking precise measurements and incorporating various customisation options such as:

1. Fabric Selection: Handmade suits offer a wide range of fabric choices, including wool, cashmere, linen, silk, and blends. The weight, texture, and pattern of the fabric can be selected based on personal preference and the intended use of the suit.
2. Fit and Silhouette: Hand made suits are tailored to fit the individual's body shape and size. Our tailor takes detailed measurements to ensure a perfect fit, considering factors such as shoulder width, chest size, waistline, sleeve length, and trouser length. The silhouette can be customised to be slim, regular, or relaxed, depending on your preference.
3. Lapel Style: The lapel is a prominent feature of a suit jacket, and handmade suits offer various lapel styles to choose from. Options include notch lapel (most common), peak lapel (more formal) or shawl lapel (elegant for tuxedos).
4. Button Style: The number and style of buttons on the suit jacket can be customised. Options include single-breasted (one or two buttons), double-breasted (four or six buttons), or even unique button configurations.
5. Pocket Styles: Handmade suits allow customisation of pocket styles. Choices include straight flap pockets, slanted flap pockets, ticket pockets, or even patch pockets for a more casual look.
6. Lining and Interior Details: The lining of a handmade suit can be personalised with various colours, patterns, or even monograms. Additionally, interior details like functional buttonholes, contrasting stitching, or personalised labels can be added to enhance the uniqueness of the suit.
   

When it comes to unique suit designs, handmade suits offer endless possibilities limited only by one's imagination and the skills of our tailor. Some individuals opt for unconventional suit designs to reflect their personal style or make a fashion statement. These unique designs can include:

1. Bold Patterns and Prints: Handmade suits can be crafted with eye-catching patterns such as checks, plaids, houndstooth, pinstripes, or even bolder prints like florals or animal prints.
2. Contrast Details: Unique suit designs often incorporate contrasting elements, such as contrasting lapels, pocket flaps, or even contrasting fabrics for certain parts of the suit.
3. Innovative Cuts and Drapes: Hand made suits can be designed with innovative cuts and drapes, experimenting with different lengths, angles, or layering techniques to create a one-of-a-kind silhouette.
4. Embellishments and Embroidery: For those seeking a more extravagant look, handmade suits can be adorned with embellishments like sequins, beads, or embroidery, adding a touch of luxury and individuality.

It's important to note that unique suit designs require skilled tailors who can bring these ideas to life while maintaining the suit's overall fit and structure. Collaborating closely with our skilled tailor ensures that the final product meets your preferences and stands out as a truly unique piece.

You may also read: What is bespoke tailoring?

 

Quality and Durability of Hand made Suits

Our handmade suits are known for their superior quality and attention to detail, which is reflected in the materials used. The choice of materials plays a crucial role in determining the overall quality and longevity of a handmade suit.

Fabrics: Handmade suits often use high-quality fabrics such as wool, flannel, cashmere, silk, and linen. These materials are carefully selected for their durability, comfort, and ability to drape well. Natural fibres are preferred over synthetic ones as they offer better breathability and a luxurious feel.

Lining: The lining used in handmade suits is typically made of silk. Silk linings are known for their smoothness, breathability, and ability to regulate body temperature. They also add an extra layer of comfort and help the suit retain its shape over time.

Thread: The thread used in handmade suits is usually of high quality and finer gauge. This ensures that the stitching is strong and less prone to unravelling. The thread colour is carefully chosen to match the fabric, creating a seamless and elegant look.

Construction techniques in hand made suits greatly influence both durability and fit. Here are a few techniques commonly employed:

Hand Stitching: Handmade suits involve a significant amount of hand stitching, especially in critical areas such as lapels, collars, and buttonholes. Hand stitching ensures greater strength and flexibility compared to machine stitching. It allows for more precise control over tension and stitch placement, resulting in a neater finish and improved durability.

Pattern Matching: Skilled tailors meticulously match patterns and stripes in the fabric when cutting and sewing the suit. This attention to detail ensures a harmonious and visually appealing appearance. Pattern matching requires extra fabric and time, but it significantly enhances the overall quality and aesthetic of the suit.

Reinforcements: Hand made suits often incorporate additional reinforcements in high-stress areas such as pockets, seams, and buttons. This helps prevent excessive wear and tear, ensuring the suit's longevity.

The Experience of Owning a Handmade Suit

Here is what some of our customers have had to say:

Here you can book an appointment for a handmade suit consultation

How to Choose a Tailor for Your Handmade Suit

Consider the following tips when finding a skilled bespoke tailor:

1. Conduct Thorough Research: Start by gathering recommendations from friends or family who have had satisfactory experiences. Additionally, look online for tailors with a history of favorable reviews and a solid reputation.
2. Review Their Work: Request to see their past creations to assess their tailoring expertise and precision in detail. This can provide insights into their skill level and the quality of their work.
3. Understand Their Methodology: Find out about the tailor's approach, including how many fittings they conduct, the expected time for completing the suit, and other relevant aspects of their process.

Your Initial Visit at Apsley: During your first appointment with us, you can anticipate the following steps:

1. Consultation: Our tailor will engage with you to understand your style preferences, lifestyle, and specific needs. We will delve into your favorite fabrics, colors, and design specifics to grasp your envisioned look.
2. Measurements: Precision is key, and we will take comprehensive measurements to ensure a perfect fit for your garment.
3. Fabric selection: You will have the chance to explore a wide array of fabric options. Our guidance will be tailored to your tastes and the intended purpose of the outfit.
4. Design: We will cover all design elements, including choices of lapel styles, types of pockets, button options, and other custom features to enhance your garment.
5. Price and timeline: We will provide a clear quote for the bespoke piece and establish a timeline for its completion. At Apsley, we are equipped to craft your ideal suit in as little as 1-2 weeks when necessary.
6. Care instructions: To maintain the longevity of your garment, we will supply detailed care instructions, including advice on cleaning, pressing, and proper storage.

In conclusion, with decades of experience, the Apsley team excels in creating bespoke wardrobes for both men and women. Whether you're in need of a casual suit, a special wedding suit, or a tailored shirt, reach out to us. Let the Apsley team guide you through our seamless process to ensure you're impeccably dressed for any occasion.

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