The Bespoke Tailoring Process at Apsley - Savile Row London

• Bespoke Tailoring
• July 02, 2024

At Apsley Tailors , we've been crafting exquisite bespoke suits for over 130 years. Our heritage is woven into every garment we create, combining time-honored tailoring traditions with cutting-edge techniques. We pride ourselves on offering a bespoke experience that is both luxurious and efficient, creating suits of unparalleled quality in as little as 1-2 weeks.

Our commitment to excellence has made us the choice of discerning gentlemen across the globe, from business leaders to royalty. When you choose Apsley, you're not just buying a suit – you're investing in a piece of sartorial art that's uniquely yours.

The Apsley Approach to Bespoke Tailoring

The Apsley approach is rooted in our belief that every client deserves a suit that's as unique as they are. Our master tailors, each with decades of experience, blend traditional craftsmanship with modern innovations to create garments that are both timeless and contemporary.

We've refined our process to offer an unmatched level of personalization and efficiency. Unlike many traditional tailors who may take months to complete a suit, we've streamlined our operations to deliver bespoke excellence in weeks, not months, without compromising on quality.

Our tailors are not just craftsmen – they're artists and problem-solvers. They understand that each client's body is unique, with its own proportions, posture, and asymmetries. This knowledge allows them to create suits that not only fit perfectly but enhance the wearer's best features.

The Bespoke Journey at Apsley

Your journey to the perfect suit at Apsley unfolds in six carefully curated steps:

1. Initial Consultation: Your bespoke experience begins with a one-on-one meeting with one of our expert tailors. This is where we discuss your style preferences, the suit's intended use, and any specific requirements you may have.
2. Measurements and Fabric Selection: We take over 30 precise measurements to create your unique pattern. You'll also choose from our extensive range of premium fabrics and customize every detail of your suit.
3. Pattern Creation: Our skilled pattern cutters use your measurements to create a unique paper pattern, which we keep on file for future orders.
4. Cutting and Construction: Your chosen fabric is carefully cut according to your pattern, and our master tailors begin the meticulous process of constructing your suit by hand.
5. Fittings and Adjustments: We conduct multiple fittings to ensure your suit fits perfectly, making adjustments as necessary.
6. Final Delivery: Once you're completely satisfied, your bespoke suit is ready for collection or delivery.

Each step is infused with our commitment to excellence, ensuring that your final suit is nothing short of perfect.

The Art of Measurement at Apsley

At Apsley, we believe that precise measurements are the foundation of a perfect suit. Our measurement process goes far beyond the basic chest, waist, and inseam measurements you might expect.

We take over 30 individual measurements, each crucial in creating a suit that fits like a second skin. These include:

• Shoulder width and slope
• Arm length and circumference
• Chest and waist circumference
• Hip and seat measurements
• Thigh, knee, and ankle circumferences
• Back length and width
• Posture and shoulder blade prominence

But numbers alone don't tell the whole story. Our experienced tailors also assess your posture, noting any asymmetries or unique body characteristics. We consider how you stand, how you move, and even how you typically wear your suits.

To enhance our traditional measuring techniques, we've incorporated cutting-edge 3D body scanning technology. This allows us to capture thousands of data points, creating a comprehensive digital blueprint of your body. This technology, combined with our tailors' expert eyes, ensures we achieve a level of precision that's unmatched in the industry.

We store your measurements and body scan data securely, making future orders even more streamlined. However, we always re-measure for each new suit to account for any changes in your body shape over time.

At Apsley, we don't just measure you for a suit – we map the unique landscape of your body to create a garment that fits and flatters in every way possible.

Fabric Selection: The Apsley Curated Collection

At Apsley Tailors, we believe that the foundation of an exceptional suit lies in the quality of its fabric. Our curated collection features some of the finest cloths from world-renowned mills, including:

• Scabal
• Holland & Sherry
• Dormeuil
• Loro Piana
• Vitale Barberis Canonico

We offer an extensive range of options, from classic worsteds to luxurious cashmere and from crisp linens to durable mohairs. Each fabric in our collection has been carefully selected for its superior quality, durability, and aesthetic appeal.

Our expert tailors guide you through the selection process, considering factors such as:

• The suit's intended use (business, formal events, casual wear)
• Seasonal appropriateness
• Your personal style and colour preferences
• Fabric performance characteristics (breathability, wrinkle resistance, etc.)

We encourage clients to touch and drape the fabrics, understanding that the tactile experience is crucial in making the right choice. Our showroom is designed to showcase our fabrics in optimal lighting conditions, allowing you to appreciate the true colour and texture of each option.

Apsley's Design and Customization Options

At Apsley, we believe that true bespoke tailoring means having control over every aspect of your suit's design. Our customization options are vast, allowing you to create a garment that's uniquely yours:

Customization Area	Options
Jacket Style	Single-breasted (1, 2, or 3 buttons) Double-breasted (4 or 6 buttons) Suit separates
Lapel Options	Notch lapel Peak lapel Shawl lapel Lapel width customization
Pocket Styles	Straight flap pockets Slanted flap pockets Patch pockets Ticket pocket option
Vents	Single vent Double vents No vent
Trouser Details	Pleated or flat front Cuffed or plain hem Belt loops or side adjusters
Lining Options	Full lining Half lining Unlined (for summer jackets) Extensive range of lining fabrics and colours
Monogramming	Interior jacket monogramming Shirt cuff monogramming

Our tailors work closely with you to understand your preferences and guide you towards choices that will best suit your style and the garment's intended use.

The Cutting Process: Apsley's Precision Approach

Once your fabric is selected and design choices are made, we move to the crucial stage of cutting. At Apsley, this process is elevated to an art form:

1. Pattern Creation: Our master pattern cutters use your unique measurements to draft a paper pattern. This is not a modified stock pattern but a completely bespoke creation tailored to your specific body shape.
2. Fabric Preparation: Before cutting, we meticulously examine the fabric for any imperfections. The fabric is then carefully pressed to ensure a perfectly smooth surface for cutting.
3. Pattern Placement: The pattern pieces are strategically placed on the fabric to optimize the use of material and ensure that any patterns or stripes align perfectly at the seams. This is particularly crucial for patterned fabrics like pinstripes or checks.
4. Hand Cutting: Using razor-sharp shears, our expert cutters carefully cut around each pattern piece. This hand-cutting process allows for a level of precision and control that machine cutting simply can't match.
5. Marking: Key points are marked on the cut pieces using tailor's chalk, indicating where pockets will be placed, where the lapels will fall, and other crucial construction details.

The cut pieces are then carefully bundled together, along with all necessary linings and interlinings, ready for the construction phase.

Apsley's Construction Techniques

At Apsley, we believe that the internal construction of a suit is just as important as its outward appearance. Our construction techniques combine time-honoured traditions with modern innovations:

1. Canvassing: We use a full floating canvas in our jacket construction. This layer of horsehair canvas is hand-stitched to the fabric, allowing the jacket to mould to your body over time for a perfect fit. This is in contrast to fused jackets, which can bubble and lose shape over time.
2. Hand Stitching: Crucial areas of the suit are always hand-stitched for superior strength and flexibility:
• Collar attachment
• Armhole stitching
• Lining attachment
• Buttonholes
3. Pad Stitching: The lapels and collar are pad stitched by hand, creating the perfect roll and shape that will last the lifetime of the garment.
4. Pockets: All pockets are reinforced for durability, with the interior pockets specially designed to hold their shape even when filled.
5. Buttons: Buttons are sewn on using a traditional shank method, allowing them to sit properly and resist pulling.
6. Trouser Construction: Our bespoke trousers feature a split-back waistband for a superior fit, with a hand-picked zipper for strength and a clean appearance.

These meticulous construction techniques ensure that your Apsley suit not only fits perfectly from day one but continues to do so for years to come. Each stitch is a testament to our commitment to quality and longevity.

The Apsley Fitting Process

At Apsley Tailors , we believe that multiple fittings are crucial to achieving the perfect suit. Our fitting process typically involves three stages:

Fitting Stage	Details
First Fitting	You'll try on a partially constructed suit, often called a "baste" We assess the overall fit, paying particular attention to the shoulders, chest, and length Any necessary adjustments are marked directly on the garment
Second Fitting	You'll try on a more complete version of the suit We fine-tune the fit, checking details like sleeve length and trouser break We ensure that all style choices are executed to your satisfaction
Final Fitting	The completed suit is tried on We make any last-minute micro-adjustments We ensure you're completely satisfied with every aspect of the garment

Throughout this process, our expert fitters use their trained eyes to assess not just how the suit fits but how it moves with your body. We consider your posture, gait, and typical movements to ensure the suit looks and feels perfect in real-world situations.

Final Touches and Delivery: The Apsley Standard

Once the fittings are complete and you're fully satisfied, we move to the final stages of the process:

1. Final Press: The suit undergoes a meticulous pressing process to set its shape and remove any wrinkles from the fitting process.
2. Quality Control: Our master tailors perform a thorough inspection of the garment, checking every stitch, button, and detail.
3. Finishing Touches: Any final elements, such as boutonnière loops or monograms, are added at this stage.
4. Packaging: Your suit is carefully hung on a high-quality hanger and placed in a protective garment bag.
5. Care Instructions: We provide detailed care instructions to ensure your suit remains in pristine condition for years to come.
6. Delivery or Collection: Your suit is ready for collection from our showroom, or we can arrange delivery to your preferred address.

At Apsley, we pride ourselves on our quick turnaround time. While many traditional tailors may take months, we can deliver a fully bespoke suit in as little as 1-2 weeks  without compromising on quality or attention to detail.

The Apsley Aftercare Service

Our commitment to you doesn't end when you receive your suit. We offer comprehensive aftercare services to ensure your Apsley garment continues to serve you well:

1. Alterations: As your body shape may change over time, we offer alteration services to ensure your suit always fits perfectly.
2. Cleaning and Pressing: We can advise on proper cleaning methods and offer professional pressing services to maintain your suit's shape.
3. Repairs: In the unlikely event of damage, our skilled tailors can perform repairs to restore your suit to its original condition.
4. Style Updates: If you wish to update the style of your suit, we can often make modifications to keep it current with changing fashion trends.
5. Garment Storage: We offer advice on proper storage techniques to preserve your suit when not in use.

Conclusion

The bespoke tailoring process at Apsley is a journey of craftsmanship, precision, and personal service. From the initial consultation to the final delivery and beyond, every step is infused with our commitment to excellence and our passion for creating the perfect suit.

We invite you to experience the Apsley difference for yourself. Whether you're seeking a suit for a special occasion, looking to elevate your professional wardrobe, or simply appreciate the art of fine tailoring, Apsley is here to create a garment that's uniquely yours.

Ready to begin your bespoke journey? Book your consultation with Apsley Tailors today and take the first step towards owning a truly exceptional suit.

Best wishes,

Arshad Mahmood