Italian Suits: What Makes Them So Special?

• Bespoke Tailoring
• September 27, 2019

The Italian Suit Revolution: A Story of Style and Innovation

The story of Italian suits isn't just about clothing – it's about a revolution in how men present themselves to the world. When you slip on an Italian suit in London, you wear generations of tailoring wisdom combined with an innate understanding of the male form. The Evolution of Excellence:

• Post-war innovation in lightweight construction
• Pioneering of modern silhouettes
• Integration of comfort with formality
• Development of signature regional styles

Distinguishing Features of Italian Suit Design

What transforms a suit from simply elegant to distinctly Italian? It's in the details – the culmination of countless decisions made by master Italian tailors in London who understand that true style lies in the subtleties.

The Three Pillars of Italian Tailoring

Italian bespoke suit-making isn't a monolithic art—it's a combination of regional traditions(Rome, Naples, Milano), each bringing its own interpretation of elegance to the modern wardrobe.

Roman Suit Tailoring Sophistication

The Roman suit is a testament to power, presence, and timeless sophistication in Italian tailoring. Its story begins in the eternal city, where tailoring traditions were shaped by centuries of papal influence, aristocratic preferences, and the city's role as a centre of classical refinement.

The Roman Suit of Authority

Just as Roman architecture commands attention with its bold columns and precise proportions, the Roman suit creates an imposing silhouette that speaks of authority and refinement: Signature Structure:

• Strong, pronounced shoulders that create a presence
• Extended jacket length that elongates the torso
• Wider lapels that frame the chest
• Deep side vents for dramatic movement

What Makes Roman Bespoke Suit Design Different?

Fabric Choices in Roman Tailoring

Traditional Roman suits in London find their strength in dense wool suitings, typically 13-15 ounces, creating that commanding presence that Roman tailoring is famous for. These heavier cloths, along with classic mohair blends, give the suit its distinctive drape and shine while ensuring durability. The modern evolution of Roman tailoring embraces innovation without losing its soul. Today's bespoke suits might incorporate performance wool blends and lighter Super 150s, adapting to contemporary needs while maintaining that unmistakable Roman silhouette. Whether choosing traditional pinstripes or modern technical blends, each fabric serves the suit's primary purpose: to create presence and authority.

When to Choose Roman Style

The Roman bespoke suit excels in specific environments:

Neapolitan Sprezzatura

In the sun-drenched streets of Naples, a different story of Italian tailoring unfolds. The Neapolitan suit embodies the city's relaxed elegance and artistic soul, shaped by Mediterranean warmth and a cultural appreciation for the art of ' sprezzatura ' - studied nonchalance. Unlike its Roman fellow, Neapolitan tailoring celebrates the natural form through lightness and fluidity.

The Art of Sprezzatura

The Neapolitan suit is a masterpiece of understated elegance. Its hallmark ' spalla camicia ' (shirt-shoulder) construction creates a puckered sleeve head that appears casually elegant as if the fabric has naturally gathered at the shoulder. This signature detail, along with minimal internal structure, allows the jacket to move like a second skin.

What Makes Neapolitan Design Unique?

The Naples Suit Design Difference: The natural shoulder line defines Neapolitan tailoring. Where Roman suits command structure, Neapolitan jackets embrace softness. The chest features minimal canvas, creating a gentle drape that follows the body's contours. High armholes and a close-fitting sleeve ensure mobility despite the jacket's trim silhouette. Traditional hallmarks include the 'Barchetta' (little boat) curved breast pocket, patch pockets with gently rounded corners, and a shorter jacket length that creates a more casual appearance. The lapels, typically wider and with a higher gorge, roll softly from the buttoning point, creating natural elegance.

Fabric Choices in Neapolitan Tailoring

Naples' warm climate has influenced its tailoring philosophy. Traditional Neapolitan bespoke suits favour lightweight wools, typically 9-11 ounces, often in open weaves that enhance breathability. High-twist wools, lightweight linens, and silk blends are staples of the Neapolitan wardrobe, creating suits that remain comfortable year-round. Modern interpretations maintain this commitment to comfort while incorporating innovative fabrics. Today's Neapolitan suits might feature tropical wools, performance blends, and crease-resistant materials, all while maintaining that characteristic lightness and fluidity.

When to Choose Neapolitan Style

The Neapolitan suit excels in environments where elegant informality is desired:

• Creative industry meetings
• Smart casual occasions
• Summer events
• Mediterranean settings

The Milanese Suit: Precision And Contemporary Elegance

The story of Milanese tailoring mirrors the city itself - sophisticated, precise, and unapologetically modern. Born in Italy's business capital, the Milanese suit represents the perfect fusion of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design sensibility. While Rome speaks of power and Naples whispers of artistry, Milan shouts innovation.

The Business of Style

Walking through Milan's fashion district, you'll notice how the city's architecture—clean lines, modernist influences, and mathematical precision—is reflected in its tailoring. The Milanese suit emerged from a city that values efficiency as much as elegance, creating a style that works as hard as its wearer.

The Milan Difference

Unlike the commanding presence of Roman suits or the artistic flair of Neapolitan tailoring, Milanese bespoke suits embody understated luxury. The shoulders feature moderate padding - just enough to create shape without ostentation. The chest lies clean and flat, creating a sleek silhouette that looks equally at home in a boardroom or a modern art gallery. What truly sets Milanese tailoring apart is its precision. Every line serves a purpose, and every measurement is calculated to create a garment that feels contemporary while remaining timeless. The jacket length hits precisely at the right point, the lapels maintain perfect proportion, and the whole garment moves with an almost engineered perfection.

Fabric Innovation: The Milan Way

Milan's position as a global fashion capital influences its fabric choices. Traditional Milanese suits often feature:

• Technical wool blends that perform in modern environments
• Innovative finishes that resist creasing and maintain shape
• Lighter weight fabrics (11-12oz) that bridge the gap between structure and comfort
• Contemporary patterns that speak to urban sophistication

When To Choose The Milanese Suit

The Milanese suit excels in contemporary business environments where modern elegance matters. It's perfect for:

• International business meetings
• Creative industry leadership
• Urban professional settings
• Modern formal occasions

The Italian Suit Experience in London: From Consultation to Creation

Every gentleman's journey to Italian tailoring begins with understanding which style best reflects their personality and needs. Choosing between Roman authority, Neapolitan sprezzatura, or Milanese precision isn't just about aesthetics - it's about finding a suit that tells your story. This journey takes on special significance in London's sophisticated tailoring scene. Here, Italian craftsmanship meets British sensibility, creating something uniquely powerful. As one of the best tailors on Savile Row, we guide you through this process with expertise born from generations of tailoring excellence.

The Investment in Italian Excellence

True Italian tailoring represents more than a purchase - it's an investment in your personal presence. Understanding the value proposition helps frame the decision: Starting Point: A bespoke Italian suit journey begins at £1,500, offering access to authentic craftsmanship that typically commands much higher prices on Savile Row. This investment includes:

• Multiple fittings
• Hand-cutting and stitching
• Premium Italian fabrics
• Lifetime alterations

Premium Collections: For those seeking the pinnacle of Italian luxury, our premium collections start from £2,500, featuring exclusive fabrics from prestigious Italian mills like Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna.

The Creation Process: Where Time Honours Tradition

Unlike mass-produced garments, each Italian suit tells a story of time, patience, and precision. However, at Apsley Tailors, we've mastered the art of efficiency without compromising quality: The Journey:

• Initial consultation and style selection
• Precise measurements and pattern creation
• First fitting within days
• Final adjustments and finishing
• Ready to wear in as little as 2 weeks

Our unique position in London's tailoring landscape allows us to offer something truly special: authentic Italian craftsmanship with British efficiency. We understand that modern gentlemen need bespoke suits quickly but refuse to compromise on quality. Most remarkably, while traditional Savile Row houses might require months to complete a suit, our streamlined process delivers impeccable Italian tailoring in a fraction of the time - without sacrificing an ounce of quality or attention to detail.

Best wishes,

Arshad Mahmood

Article Updated: 15.02.2025