What's the Difference Between Made-to-Measure and Bespoke?

• Bespoke Tailoring
• June 11, 2019

Have you ever wondered why some gentlemen always look impeccably dressed, as if their suits were crafted specifically for them? The secret often lies in the world of custom tailoring, where made-to-measure and bespoke reign supreme.

Both offer a step up from off-the-rack clothing but differ significantly in process, outcome, and price.

Understanding these differences is crucial for investing in a well-fitted suit. Whether you're a business professional seeking a sharp everyday look or preparing for a special occasion, knowing the nuances of made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring will help you make an informed decision that aligns with your needs, preferences, and budget.

But what exactly sets these two apart, and how do you choose which is right for you?

Historical Context

The art of tailoring has a rich history dating back centuries, evolving alongside societal changes and technological advancements.

The Birth of Bespoke: When did 'bespoke' tailoring emerge, and why was it revolutionary?

The term ' bespoke ' originated in London's Savile Row during the late 18th century. When a customer selected a fabric, it was said to 'be spoken for', hence the term 'bespoke'. This method of tailoring, where each garment was crafted individually for a specific client, became synonymous with luxury and exclusivity in men's fashion.

The Rise of Made-to-Measure

The Industrial Revolution in the 19th century brought about significant changes in clothing production. As demand for more accessible tailoring grew, made-to-measure services emerged as a middle ground between off-the-rack and bespoke clothing. This approach utilised pre-existing patterns adjusted to individual measurements, offering a degree of personalisation at a lower cost and faster production times than traditional bespoke tailoring.

Modern Tailoring

Today, both bespoke and made-to-measure services continue to evolve, incorporating new technologies while preserving traditional craftsmanship. The advent of computer-aided design (CAD) and Body scanning technologies has particularly impacted the made-to-measure industry, allowing for more precise measurements and pattern adjustments.

Defining Made-to-Measure and Bespoke

Understanding the specific characteristics of made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring is essential for appreciating their differences.

Made-to-Measure

Made-to-measure tailoring involves adjusting a pre-existing pattern to fit the client's measurements. Key features include:

• Pattern Adjustment: A standard pattern is altered based on 15-20 body measurements.
• Fabric Selection: Offers a wide range of fabric choices, though less extensive than bespoke.
• Customisation: Allows for some personalisation in style details, but within pre-set options.
• Production: Often involves a combination of machine and hand work.
• Timeframe: Usually takes 2-4 weeks from order to completion.

Bespoke

Bespoke tailoring is the most personalised form of suit-making. Its characteristics include:

• Unique Pattern Creation: A new pattern is drafted from scratch for each client based on 25-30 measurements and posture observations.
• Extensive Fabric Options: Offers a vast selection of fabrics, often including rare and luxury materials.
• Unlimited Customisation: Provides complete freedom in design choices, from lapel width to button placement.
• Handcrafted: Primarily constructed by hand, with minimal machine use.
• Timeframe: Typically takes 4-8 weeks or more to complete.

"Bespoke tailoring is not just about measurements; it's about creating a garment that complements every aspect of an individual's physique and style preferences."

Both made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring offer significant advantages over off-the-rack clothing in fit and personalisation. The choice between the two often depends on factors such as budget, time constraints, desired level of customisation, and specific fit requirements.

Key Differences: Made-to-Measure vs Bespoke

Understanding the nuances between made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring is crucial for making an informed decision. Let's explore the key differences in detail:

Pattern Making

Made-to-Measure:

• Uses a pre-existing block pattern
• Adjusts the standard pattern based on client measurements
• Typically involves digital pattern modification

Bespoke:

• Creates a unique paper pattern from scratch for each client
• Considers posture, body asymmetry, and client preferences
• The pattern is handcrafted by a master tailor

"The creation of a bespoke pattern is an art form, requiring years of experience to perfect."

Fitting Process

Made-to-Measure:

• Initial fitting for measurements
• Final fitting when the garment is complete

Bespoke:

• includes a basted fitting and as many additional fittings to ensure the perfect fit

Fabric Selection

Made-to-Measure:

• Offers 200-300 fabric choices
• Fabrics usually from 1-2 mills
• Limited access to rare or exclusive fabrics

Bespoke:

• Provides 2000-5000 fabric options
• Sources from 10+ renowned mills
• Access to rare, vintage, and exclusive cloths

Customisation and Construction

The level of customisation and construction methods significantly differ between made-to-measure and bespoke suits.

Customisation Options

Made-to-Measure:

• Limited customisation within pre-set options
• You can choose lapel style, pocket type, button placement
• Restrictions on structural modifications

Bespoke:

• Unlimited customisation possibilities
• Can modify any aspect of the suit's design
• Allows for unique features like hidden pockets or personalised linings

Construction Methods

Made-to-Measure:

• Combination of machine and hand work
• Pre-made canvas and padding
• Machine-sewn seams with some hand-finished details

Bespoke:

• Primarily hand-constructed
• Hand-padded canvas for better drape and fit
• Hand-sewn buttonholes and pick-stitching

"The amount of handwork in a bespoke suit is what sets it apart, allowing for a level of refinement and durability that's unmatched."

Time Investment and Pricing

The time and financial investment required for made-to-measure and bespoke suits vary significantly.

Time Frame

Made-to-Measure:

• 2-4 weeks from order to completion
• Quicker turnaround due to semi-automated processes
• Suitable for clients with time constraints

Bespoke:

• 4-8 weeks or more
• Longer process due to multiple fittings and hand construction
• It is ideal for those seeking the ultimate in tailoring artistry

Pricing Structure

Made-to-Measure:

• Starting from £800 - £2,500 for a suit
• Price varies based on fabric choice and brand
• More accessible entry point for custom tailoring

Bespoke:

• Starting from £1,500 - £5,000+ for a suit
• Price reflects extensive labour, premium materials, and unlimited customisation.
• Represents an investment in a garment of the highest quality

Is the investment in a bespoke suit worth it in the long run?

• Made-to-measure offers a significant upgrade from off-the-rack at a more accessible price point.
• Bespoke provides unparalleled fit, quality, and longevity, justifying the higher cost for those prioritising these aspects.

It's important to note that while bespoke tailoring offers the highest level of customisation and quality, made-to-measure can still provide an excellent fit and personalisation options for many clients. The choice between the two often depends on individual priorities, budget, and specific clothing needs.

Choosing Between Made-to-Measure and Bespoke

Deciding between made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring depends on various factors. Consider the following aspects when making your choice:

Body Type and Fit Requirements

• Made-to-Measure: This is ideal for those whose body types closely align with standard proportions. It can accommodate minor fit adjustments.
• Bespoke is best for individuals with unique body shapes, significant asymmetry, or those requiring extensive customisation for a perfect fit.

Occasion and Purpose

• Made-to-Measure: Suitable for business wear, semi-formal events, and everyday suits.
• Bespoke: Optimal for special occasions, formal wear, and when you need a truly one-of-a-kind garment.

Budget and Value

• Made-to-Measure: Offers good value for those seeking a step up from off-the-rack without the higher investment of bespoke.
• Bespoke: Provides the highest quality and longevity, justifying the cost for those who view it as a long-term investment.

"The choice between made-to-measure and bespoke often comes down to balancing personal priorities of fit, customisation, time, and budget."

"I've had suits from various tailors over the years, but my experience with Apsley Tailors has been truly exceptional. I initially came in for a made-to-measure suit for a business conference, and I was impressed by the attention to detail and the quality of the final product. The fit was so perfect that I invested in a bespoke suit for my wedding. The entire process was a masterclass in tailoring. From the initial consultation to the final fitting, the expertise of the Apsley team shone through. They took the time to understand not just my measurements but my style preferences and the occasion. The result was nothing short of magnificent! It's been three years, and both suits still look impeccable. Apsley Tailors has won a customer for life in me. Whether you're considering made-to-measure or bespoke, I can't recommend them highly enough."

• James Harrington, Finance Executive, London

The Future of Tailoring

The tailoring industry is evolving, incorporating new technologies while preserving traditional craftsmanship. Here are some trends shaping the future of made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring:

Technological Advancements

• 3D Body Scanning: Improving accuracy in measurements for made-to-measure.
• Virtual Fittings: Enabling remote consultations and fittings is especially beneficial for made-to-measure clients.
• AI-Assisted Design: Helping to predict fit issues and suggest customisations.

Sustainability Focus

• Eco-Friendly Fabrics: Increasing use of sustainable and organic materials in both made-to-measure and bespoke.
• Zero-Waste Cutting: Implementing techniques to minimise fabric waste.
• Durability Emphasis: Promoting the longevity of well-made garments as a sustainable choice.

Changing Consumer Preferences

• Casual Bespoke: Growing demand for bespoke casual wear beyond traditional suits.
• Hybrid Services: Some tailors offer services that blend elements of made-to-measure and bespoke.
• Educational Approach: Increased focus on educating clients about the value of custom tailoring.

At Apsley Tailors, we pride ourselves on offering exquisite made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring services. With over 130 years of experience, we understand that every gentleman's needs are unique. Whether you're looking for the efficiency and value of made-to-measure or the unparalleled craftsmanship of bespoke, our master tailors are here to guide you through the process.

Experience the Apsley difference—where tradition meets innovation, and every stitch tells a story of excellence. Ready to elevate your wardrobe? Book a consultation day, and let us craft the perfect suit that fits your Body and your lifestyle.

Frequently Asked Questions

To further clarify the distinctions between made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring, here are answers to some commonly asked questions:

Can made-to-measure suits be altered later?

Yes, made-to-measure suits can be altered, but the extent of alterations may be limited compared to bespoke suits. Major structural changes are often not possible.

How many fittings are typically required for a bespoke suit?

A bespoke suit usually requires 2-3 fittings, including the initial measurement session, baste fitting, forward fitting, and final fitting. Complex designs may require additional fittings.

Is bespoke tailoring worth the extra cost?

For those who prioritise perfect fit, highest quality construction, and unlimited customisation, bespoke tailoring is often worth the investment. The garments typically last longer and offer unparalleled comfort and style.

How long does a bespoke suit last?

With proper care, a bespoke suit can last for decades. The high-quality materials and construction methods contribute to its longevity, often making it a more cost-effective choice in the long run.

Best wishes,

Arshad Mahmood

Article Updated: 28.10.2024